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When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. But, situated near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary achievement.